![]() ![]() Chung's hot oil is something that should be bottled. And the curve of the collars means more crispy edges. There's enough gelatin in the fish to mimic a piece of chicken that's both juicy and meaty. If you've enjoyed a grilled fish collar at a sushi restaurant, you'll understand why it's the perfect ingredient for the hot chicken treatment. And Chung, like the rest of us, is a fan of Nashville hot chicken. It's a menu actuated by the time he spent growing up in Virginia, his love of Southern food and his Korean heritage. Now, it's a place with cheesy bread, hot fried sea bass collars and a host of dishes you share and eat with your hands. The restaurant recently reopened with a new menu under the direction of Paul Chung, culinary director of Saison Hospitality. ![]() Like a steakhouse, it wasn't somewhere I thought to visit beyond a special occasion. It's a place where seafood is celebrated as the main attraction, showing up in dishes traditionally reserved for heavier proteins. Hot fried sea bass collars (and cheese bread) from AnglerĮsther Tseng, a food writer and Times contributor, once called Angler Los Angeles at the Beverly Center a "steakhouse for seafood." She was right. If hot chicken has become part of your weekly rotation, I'm about to make the argument for hot fish. With the Hotville food truck and two locations of Howlin' Ray's, it's easy to understand the obsession. The fiery poultry with roots in Nashville is everywhere, with countless restaurants devoted to the stuff and hot chicken-inspired menu items across Southern California. ![]() Over the last decade, I watched hot chicken take hold of Los Angeles in a way I'd never seen a dish grip an entire city. ![]()
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